PUMA
PRESENTS:
FIXED-GEAR
101
RIDING FIXED:
AN INTRODUCTION by Squid, CO-captain of TEAM PUMA
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“My brother was a bike messenger before me. He
got his first fixed-gear without even knowing it. That was
back in, like, 1990. It was a Schwinn Paramount. He didn’t
even know it was different.”
“He thought it was just a fucked-up bike, you know, that
wouldn’t stop pedaling. So, he learned on that. And then,
I started working as a messenger, like a year after him.
I worked on a mountain bike for two winters. And, then my
brother was into the fixed-gear, and a lot of my friends
were into that stuff. They were just leaving me in the dust
wherever we went, you know. So I was just like, ‘fuck it. I
gotta try it, too.”
“When you’re on a fixed-gear, it pushes you through
intersections. You don’t want to stop. Once you get on it
and you get moving, you stop thinking about stopping. You
just think about getting around and getting through. If
you got a bike with brakes, it’s like a safety net. You
can always just grab the brakes and you know you’re gonna
automatically stop. But if you get out there with a bike
with no brakes, all of a sudden you’ve got to start thinking
of alternatives to stopping.”
“You gotta be more focused. When you’re on a bike with brakes,
your point of view is five feet in front of you. When you’re
on a bike with no brakes, your point of view is a block ahead
of you. You gotta see who’s gonna be turning that corner, how
many pedestrians are stepping off the curb.”
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Squid “It’s scary when you see someone
who looks like they don’t know how to
handle their bike. If it’s a fashion
accessory, it could be a dangerous
fashion accessory. Riding a bike
is the best way to get around a
city. It’s way faster than the
subway, faster than a car.
But, at the same time,
it can be dangerous. If
you’re riding a fixedgear,
you’ve gotta
be dedicated, and
you’ve got to
understand that
it can be
dangerous
out there.”
“If you
learn how
to ride
with the
brake,
then you
take the
brake off,
you gotta learn how to ride it all over
again. If you want a bike with brakes,
stick with the single speed. If you want a
fixed-gear, leave the brake off. Because,
literally, you do have a brake. Your legs
slow it down. And, if you’re afraid too—if
you think, “I need the brake because I
want to be able to stop,” then take the
brake off, and don’t go that fast. And when
you’re ready to go faster, go faster.”
“It changes your whole scenario. When you can’t stop
automatically, you’ve got to be one hundred percent on point,
and paying attention.”
“It’s really simple, but it can be really fucking dangerous,
too, if you’re not paying attention. In New York, there are
always a lot of moving things. I got nine stitches six weeks
ago. Coming off the Williamsburg bridge coming into Brooklyn.
It’s the kind of shit that can happen when you’re not one
hundred percent focused. I wasn’t paying attention when
I was riding my bike. It’s all about being ‘right here
right now.’ If you’re focused, you can deal with
anything. If you’re not paying attention, fucking
pizza, man. It’s all about paying attention.”
“When I started riding fixed-gear, I was a
menace, like crashing into stuff. All over the
place. But, my motivation was to be able to
keep up with my brother and the crew. So,
I was just going for it. Was like, “I’ll
stop—aahhh!” And crash into the back of
something—that’s how I’d stop, you know?
I’m not going to hate on anyone that’s doing
that, cuz I did it, too.”
“If you’re riding a fixed-gear, you’ve gotta
be dedicated, and you’ve got to understand
that it can be dangerous out there.”
frame you will need (the tube directly
underneath the seat).
The one requisite of the frame is
horizontal dropouts. Without a derailleur
to tension the chain, the wheel must be
able to slide front to back in order to
tighten up the slack in the chain.
Two other types of bike have horizontal
dropouts, the English 3-speed and cruiser.
However, these are not worth converting,
as the bottom bracket is so low, you’ll
be scraping your pedals on every street
corner, plus the geometry is too laid back
and very, very sluggish.
Once you have a frame, the necessary
modifications will be:
1. adding a new rear track wheel or hub
2. adding a track cog
3. adding a track chain
4. maybe adding a bottom bracket axle
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FIXED GEAR
101: GETTING
STARTED by Dave Pendon
START WITH THE FRAME
YOU’LL NEED:
• a shorter wheelbase (axle distance
between wheels),
• steeper head and seat tube angles (the
closer to vertical, the more responsive
the ride)
• a higher “bottom bracket” (the horizontal
axle that your crankarms and pedal spin
around). You’ll be pedaling through corners
so you need pedal clearance.
Probably the most appropriate frame is
a70’s-80’s era road bike, otherwise known as
a “12-speed” or “racing bike”. Most of the
time the higher end the better as higher
end bikes of this period had more of a
racing geometry.
To find a bike that fits, measure you’re
inseam from the floor to your pubic bone.
Take 2/3rds of that measurement, and that
should equal the seat tube length of the
DROPOUTS
So, past all the romanticized metaphors of
‘‘an extension of your body’’ and ‘‘connected
to the road’’ stuff. First thing you’ll need
is a frame. Dave lives in Montreal and is a bike messenger by day.
By night he builds custom track frames.
The heart of a fixed gear
drivetrain is a rear
track hub, the piece that
turns the back wheel.
You’ll need one with a
stepped thread. You can
probably find one if you
know what you’re looking
for, but I’d recommend
buying one. Get one with
a stepped thread, one
larger diameter set of
threads for a cog, and
a smaller neighboring
reverse set for a lockring. If the bike
you’re using came with a decent rear wheel
you can have your local shop lace the old
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TRACK HUB GEARS
Take off the derailleurs, shift levers and
rear brake (if you want to).
The crankset you have probably has two
chainrings. I’d recommend using the smaller
of the two, which will be a 39-42 tooth.
Like any other sports equipment, don’t
think that you’re all pro at first and slap
a huge gear (like 90 inches) on there.
It’ll be really hard to stop – or you just
won’t. You want to gear your bike for
good all around fixed gear purposes-
accelerating, climbing, skipping,
skidding, trackstanding, and spinning
on the flats.
rim to the new hub, or you can go all out
and replace the rear wheel.
You may hear talk of a super cheap method
of using a bottom bracket lockring and
loctite, and redishing the rear wheel.
Often called a bumbike or suicide hub,
these are often the “conversions” sold
in online auctions. This is a setup for
idiots. It’s about as safe as rollerskating
down an escalator, as the cog will
eventually come loose,
typically while you are
skidding down a steep,
pot-holed hill that T-bones
to the highway off ramp.
Pony up for a track hub.
A good ballpark for your gear combination,
should be in the high 60’s or low 70’s of
gear inches. Depending on the size of your
chainring, choose an appropriate cog. Your
track-friendly bike shop selling you the
hub and cog will also be able to give you
a good recommendation of the appropriate
gearing for your turf. A lower gear (lower
number ie: 67inches) will be easier to
climb with, easier to flip into a skid,
and easier to trackstand with. However
on downhills a lower gear will “spin
out” easier. In general, a higher gear
is better for
hauling ass.
14t COG
15t COG
16t COG
39t CHAINRING
73.2 gear inches
68.3 gear inches
64.1 gear inches
40t CHAINRING
75.1 gear inches
70.1 gear inches
65.7 gear inches
42t CHAINRING
78.8 gear inches
73.6 gear inches
69.0 gear inches
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The drivetrain’s
momentum is enough to
suck in a finger and
chop off the tip.
in the dropouts, with a chain tension
that is just a bit looser than tight.
This takes a bit of getting used to.
After you’ve got a good tension, tighten
down the hub to the frame.
Be very careful with hair, loose sleeves or
fingers anywhere near a cog or chainring
while pedaling the drivetrain by hand. The
drivetrain’s momentum of a turning rim, tire
and pedal is enough to suck in a finger and
chop off the tip. Be as vigilant as you
would around a table saw.
THE TOOLS YOU’LL NEED DON’T USE THESE ON YOUR BIKE CHAINLINE
That chain has probably been on there
since day one. Buy a new track chain.
You need the straightest possible
chainline between the gear and the cog. A
bit off, and your chain will pop off when
you’re riding. This is known as “dropping
a chain,” which results in “pooping your
drawers.” Very dangerous.
After sliding your track wheel into
your frame, wrap the chain around the cog
and ring and cut it to size with a chain
breaking tool, with the axle positioned in
the middle of the adjusting range of the
horizontal dropout slots.
Sighting from the rear, you can see down
the length of chain if it does a zigzag
to get from the cog to the ring. To
straighten it you’ll need to install a
shorter or longer bb axle.
If the chain comes off the cog, veers to
the left, and then straightens out on
the ring, you need a longer bb axle, if
it veers to the right, a shorter one. Go
longer or shorter by maybe 5mm or so.
If you have access to vernier calipers,
you can measure the distance of the apex
of the chain ring, to the centre of the
seat tube, this should be 42mm (to work
with a standard 120mm track hub). If you
don’t have calipers, eyeball it.
TENSIONING THE CHAIN
The one tool you’ll need in your bag at all
times is an open & box combo wrench in the
metric size for your rear hub nuts. 14mm is
what you’ll need for Miche and Zeus, a 6 mm
Allen key for some US made ones, and 15mm
for everything else. Do not use Vise-Grips,
channel-lock pliers, or Imperial size tools
as you will round out the faces of your
nuts, rendering them useless.
With your rear wheel in your dropouts, you
will have to play around with the exact
positioning of the rear wheel to get your
chain tension spot-on. The easiest way is
a bit of trial and error, slowly walking
the hub axle backwards in the dropouts,
alternately lightly tightening each
nut with each step, and loosening the
opposite side to walk it back a mm, then
retighten and loosen and walk the other
side. You want a wheel that is centered
WHEELS
by Squid
“You got to have good wheels. Deep dish
rims are better than box rims. The deep
dish rims make city riding so much better,
They build a stiffer wheel so they’ll
hold their true longer. Keep your tire
pressure up, that’s really important. You
should pump your tires up every two or
three days. They should be up to 100 lbs
of pressure every time you’re riding. If
you’re riding on like 60 lbs of pressure
or 80 lbs of pressure that’s when you’re
going to get your flat tires you know—cus
if you hit something hard like a curb or
something like that and you don’t have
proper pressure you’re going to get a flat.
You’re better off with a regular stand up
pump. A gas station pump only goes up to
80 lbs.”
“You should always carry tools with
you too, carry a pump, a patch kit,
tire levers and a wrench. That
way if you get a flat, you can
fix it yourself. It’s stupid
to have a bike and not be
able to fix it. A little
bit of stuff to carry
with you that makes so
much sense, you don’t
want to go to a party
and get a flat and
have it ruin your
whole day.”
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BULLHORN BARS
These bars have a great all
round hand position, and are
great for skidding, skipping
and tricks. The look is more
tech and new school than
classic and retro. You can buy a set or
make yourself a pair by flipping and
cutting a set of road drops (if you’re on
a budget).
MOUNTAIN BIKE
HANDLEBARS
They are also called RISER
AND FLAT BARS and have
a great all-round hand
position and a similar feel
to bullhorn bars, with a
position a bit more set back.
Handlebars are
the most notable
“modification’’ to
the original bike.
HANDLEBARS
Handlebars are the most notable
“modification” to the original bike. Any
style will work fine. They all have
their advantages:
PISTA BARS OR
TRACK DROPS
They have almost no flat on
the bar tops. They round
out & down right out of the
stem (so you don’t bang your
forearms while you’re sprinting). The
bars feel great while you’re down low,
but they take a bit of getting used to in
all other positions. These bars complete
the classic trackbike look, with the sole
purpose of going all out in the sprints.
ROAD DROPS
These are pretty much the same
as pista bars, but have better
bar top hand position. They
aren’t quite as sexy, but more
functional. Easier to work
with when you’re running a front brake with
a BMX lever. They’re also easier to find.
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Wax on. Wax off.
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HOW TO SKID “Its all
about
leaning
over the
handlebars.”
TOE CLIPS
“You’ve got to have toe clips.
I know people who ride without
them. But they’re crazy.” - Squid
With your new bike’s drivetrain ready to
roll, you’ll need to fine tune your setup.
If the bike’s pedals have holes for toe
clips, install a set with nylon straps.
If the pedals are not made for clips, get
ones that are. Remember, the left pedal
is reverse threaded. While they have a nice
vintage feel, stay away from simple leather
straps. The reinforced ones made for track
racing are great, however with the cheap
econo ones, the leather wears out very
quickly and has a tendency to snap. Some
people like to double up the straps on the
foot they favour when pulling up to brake.
And keep those shoelaces really well tucked
in. If a right-side shoelace gets caught
just right in the drivetrain, you’ll pedal
your forehead right into the asphalt.
TRICKS
TRACKSTAND
DIFFICULTY: THE ARMPIT FART
When you’re first starting out take both
feet out of the clips. This will keep you
from being seen lying on the street under
your bike. Bring your pulling foot to 2
or 3 o’clock. Turn your handlebars towards
your front foot about 45 degrees. Stand
up on your pedals and alternately push
backward and forward with both feet to
balance yourself. The feeling is very
similar to being on a balance board (or a
plank with a rolling pin).
NO-HANDED TRACKSTAND
DIFFICULTY: BELCHING THE ALPHABET
Turn your bars close to sideways, let go,
lean back and pinch the seat between your
thighs. Then learn to do it pinching with
just your cheeks.
THE QUICKSILVER HOP
DIFFICULTY: THE WORM
Slow down with your feet out of your toe
clips, and your hands on the tops of
your handlebars. When your pulling foot
is at 1-2 o’clock, in one big coordinated
simultaneous move, take off the other foot
(aka chocolate foot), and push out and
over with your pulling foot, let go and
push the handlebars away from you. Land
behind your bike walking and catch it by
the seat to stop it from rolling away.
BACKWARDS CIRCLE
DIFFICULTY: TRAINING YOUR DOG TO USE
THE TOILET
Get good at trackstanding with your
chocolate foot forward. Get good at
moving back and forth a few feet while
trackstanding both ways. Start in your
most comfortable trackstanding position,
with your bars halfway between straight and
45. Push, pull, and ride it out. Breaking
it down into sections, and working the
sections of the circle helps too get your
body used to the motions. Wax on. Wax off.
“There are all kinds of stuff you can
do [to stop]. Its all about leaning over
the handlebars. That’s a good tip too if
you want to skid, the more weight you
can get over the
front of the bike
the better. If
you can get all
the weight off
the back wheel,
then its really
easy to lock it
up.” - Squid
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TIPS FROM
ALFRED BOBE JR.
FOR NEW RIDERS
• Remember track bikes weren’t
built or intended for the
city. They were meant for the
track as a speed bike. We (the messengers)
transformed this idea into an urban
assault cycling bike in the streets.
• Riding track bikes has become cool and
different, but you should pick it up
because you have respect for cycling and
the cycling culture. Track bikes have been
around for more than 100 years and it has
a deep cultural history. It’s still very
difficult and you need to respect it.
• When you first start to ride track bikes,
find a safe, open street without traffic.
You need to get an idea of how the bike
feels physically.
• Wear a helmet and full-fingered gloves.
Gloves are important if you take a
spill. They can help you slide out of any
potential damage you may get into.
• Always think ahead when you’re riding.
Almost anything can happen with a track
bike and physically, it’s important to be
aware of your surroundings.
• Always look out for what pedestrians are
doing. Be alert – if they cross the street,
you know it’s safe to cross. Take notice of
pedestrian streetlights as well, they can
be good cues for you to ride.
• When crossing an intersection, if traffic
is coming from your right, be on the left.
And vice versa.
• Be aggressive at all times, but play
safety first.
• Riding a track bike is not about being
cool, it’s about staying alive.
Concentrate on every pedal
stroke. Always know where
your bike is going.
Bobe is a seasoned bike messenger
and CO-captain of TEAM PUMA
• Concentrate on every pedal stroke.
Always know where your bike is going.
• Ride with someone experienced. If you
don’t know anyone, find a clinic where
they can teach you. The best way to
learn is from an experienced rider and
practice.
• Many people who start riding a track
bike have trouble stopping. If you find
yourself in a bind without brakes,
don’t try to stop your bike.
Instead, redirect it out
of trouble – take a
quick left or quick
right. Or turn the
bike sideways
for a “hockey”
type stop. A
hockey type
stop is the
safest way
to stop.
Alfred
“I see a lot of these kids who have,
like—it looks like they’re riding a threethousand
dollar bike, and it’s, completely
cherry. I think the kids with the blingbling
bikes are asking for it. I’d say
don’t have the shiniest bike out there. If
you’re riding around the city, you want
it to be a little rough-looking, so that
people will leave you alone.”
“I guess the best way to do it is go
around to the bike shops. EBay is a good
place to get stuff, so is Craigslist.”
“A lot of kids focus on getting a really
cherry bike, and its like fuck that shit.
It’s not about how much you spend on it, its
“I think it’s going to keep growing.
People are sick of the auto bullshit. The
younger generation is more interested in
skateboards and bikes than ever. There’s
more bike shops in New York now than
ever.”
“I think it’s just going to get bigger and
bigger. Back in the 1800’s it was huge. The
velodrome racing at Madison Square Garden
was the hottest thing going. I can see it
happening again. Me and some friends are
working a figure-eight velodrome.”
“It seems like the cool thing about a
fixed-gear is that if you get on a track
it’s easy to watch. That’s one thing that
might make it more popular, it’s like a
spectator sport. On the street it’s like
an individual thing, and you enjoy it with
a few people around you who can keep up
with you. But if you put it on a velodrome
you can drink beer and eat potato chips.
In Japan they’ve got Keirin Racing, which
is a huge billion-dollar thing and people
bet on it.”
“Riding on the street is cool and
everything but if you want the real deal,
the velodrome is where it’s at, cuz there’s
no stopping out there. It’s all go. After
two or three laps you can really tell what
kind of shape you’re in. It’s an ass kicker!”
about how fast can you move it.”
“It’s always evolving too. The 21 and 22
year olds are now doing weird and crazy
tricks that I would never try to do:
Skids with no hands, skidding with their
front foot over the handlebars, circus
type shit.”
“Another really cool thing about a track
bike is if you got it set up right, it’s
completely silent. If your chain is not
too tight and all your shit’s right, you
won’t make a sound. So 9 times out of 10,
you can go right past people and they’ll
never know you were there.”
NO BLING
by Squid
“If it’s a fashion accessory, it
could be a dangerous fashion
accessory.”
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“I see a lot of these kids who have, like—
it looks like they’re riding a threethousand
dollar bike, completely cherry. I
think the kids with the bling-bling bikes
are asking for it.”
LOCKING YOUR
BIKE by Chris McNally
THE RIGHT WAY
TO LOCK IT UP
PLACES NOT TO
LOCK YOUR BIKE